Travel with Spirits

Tag: travelwithspirits

  • Beyond Railways: Buses as Real Connections in the Balkans 🚌

    Beyond Railways: Buses as Real Connections in the Balkans 🚌

    Low-carbon travel is not always seamless.

    In parts of Europe, especially across the Balkans, railways simply do not connect in practical ways. International routes are limited, slow, or suspended. Borders between EU and non-EU countries involve passport checks, customs procedures, and unpredictable waiting times.

    In these places, buses are not a secondary choice. They are often the only one.

    Where Rail Ends

    High-speed rail dominates headlines, but buses quietly fill the gaps.

    At Barcelona Nord, I was reminded that Europe’s transport system is layered. Trains dominate Western Europe, but buses extend the network.

    Andorra appears not as an exception, but as routine infrastructure.

    There is no railway connection between Barcelona and Andorra. The only realistic way into the Pyrenees is by coach. The three-hour ride climbs steadily. The road narrows. The air cools. It is not dramatic. It is simply how the region functions.

    San Marino: A State Without Rail

    Where there is no rail, the bus is the system.

    San Marino has no active railway. To reach it, I took a bus from Rimini.

    The road winds upward from the Adriatic coast.

    The route climbs into the hills. There is no visible border checkpoint, but you are crossing into a sovereign state. Here, buses are not an alternative. They are the infrastructure itself.

    Crossing the Balkans

    A regional hub where road replaces rail.

    In Podgorica, buses connect Montenegro to Serbia, Kosovo, North Macedonia, Albania, and further into the EU.

    Skopje, Pristina, Thessaloniki. Road corridors where rail is limited.

    Cross-border journeys are tangible. Drivers collect passports. Officers board the bus. Luggage compartments are opened. Sometimes the process is quick. Sometimes it takes much longer. You feel the border.

    Everyday Mobility

    Practical vehicles forming the backbone of regional mobility.

    The buses are practical. Seats worn. Curtains faded. Air conditioning inconsistent.

    Daily mobility, not curated tourism.

    Passengers include workers, students, families, traders carrying large bags.

    Informal logistics networks moving alongside passengers.

    I once watched a washing machine being loaded into the luggage hold. It did not surprise anyone. These buses move people and goods together.

    The Part I Struggle With

    Scheduled stops determine comfort.

    There is one reason I still prefer trains when possible.

    Many long-distance Balkan bus routes last eight to ten hours. Most coaches do not have onboard toilets. You wait for scheduled stops. When you need a bathroom, you wait for the next one. And the facilities are often basic, sometimes not particularly clean.

    This is the only part of long-distance bus travel I genuinely struggle with. Trains offer more space and consistent facilities. On buses, comfort depends heavily on timing.

    Extending the Network

    Where rail ends, road continues.

    Despite these limitations, buses extend Europe’s mobility network where tracks end. From Barcelona to Andorra. From coastal Italy into San Marino. Across Balkan borders where rail infrastructure was never rebuilt or modernized.

    They do not compete with trains. They replace what does not exist.

    Sustainable Travel in Imperfect Systems

    Mobility shaped by geography and history.

    From an emissions perspective, buses sit between rail and flying. In Europe, rail averages around 14g CO₂ per passenger kilometer. Coaches often range between 25–60g. Short-haul flights typically exceed 150g.

    Rail is clearly lower. But in regions where rail does not exist, the real comparison is not bus versus train. It is bus versus flying.

    In the Balkans, choosing the bus is not about chasing the lowest possible number. It is about working with the infrastructure that exists.

    Sustainable travel is rarely about ideal systems. It is about making the best possible decision within real ones.

    In much of the Balkans, and in mountain states like Andorra or San Marino, buses are not secondary transport. They are the backbone.

  • Night Trains: Aligning Movement, Rest, and Sustainable Travel 🚞

    Night Trains: Aligning Movement, Rest, and Sustainable Travel 🚞

    Night trains occupy a distinct place in European railway culture. Long before budget airlines reshaped mobility, sleeper services connected ports, capitals, and inland cities across shifting borders.

    In 2022, I boarded my first night train with an Interrail pass. I expected nostalgia. What I found was continuity. I slept deeply and arrived whole.

    That experience shaped my 2025 journey. I built part of my Interrail route around night trains, curious whether movement and rest could truly coexist.

    Bar to Belgrade

    Bar station, where the Adriatic coast gives way to inland rail.

    Bar station feels functional rather than iconic. No spectacle. Just infrastructure serving daily life.

    Rail as everyday infrastructure, not tourism theater

    The night service to Belgrade operates as connective tissue across the Balkans.

    Convertible seats transforming public space into temporary bedroom.

    The compartment was simple. Convertible seats, luggage secured overhead, strangers sharing space with quiet courtesy.

    Corridors become transitional architecture after dark.

    As darkness settled, borders were crossed quietly. By morning, Belgrade arrived gradually. No rupture. Just transition.

    Bucharest to Budapest

    Compact European sleeper design balancing density and privacy.

    The Bucharest to Budapest route felt more refined. Blue bunks stacked efficiently. Curtains offering privacy.

    The dining car as one of Europe’s last democratic travel spaces.

    In the dining car, travelers shared drinks while the countryside passed unseen. Distance became social.

    A narrow bunk. The steady rhythm of steel on rail.

    By morning, Romanian hills had given way to Hungarian plains. You do not crash into arrival. You ease into it.

    Rosenheim to Warsaw

    Mobility depends on timing, language, and awareness.

    A last-minute platform change. An announcement in German I missed. The train departed.

    I took a regional train from Rosenheim to Vienna and from there an overnight bus to Warsaw.

    The contrast was immediate.

    No berth.
    No soft corridor light.
    No gentle sway of steel on rail.

    Sleep came in fragments. Yet distance still closed overnight. Borders were crossed. Morning arrived.

    Why Night Trains Matter

    Night trains are often described as climate-conscious alternatives to short-haul flights. The environmental difference is significant. According to the European Environment Agency, rail travel averages around 14 grams of CO₂ per passenger kilometer, while short-haul flights can exceed 150 grams.

    But their relevance is not only environmental.

    Across Europe, operators such as ÖBB Nightjet are expanding cross-border services, responding to renewed demand for slower, lower-impact mobility.

    Night trains integrate rest into transit. They preserve geography instead of skipping over it.

    They may be slower than planes.

    But environmentally and culturally, they offer something increasingly rare: continuity.

  • Traveling Europe by Interrail: Learning to Arrive Slowly 🛤️

    Traveling Europe by Interrail: Learning to Arrive Slowly 🛤️

    Trains as the backbone of low-carbon movement

    In 2025, from May to July, I traveled across Europe with a three-month Interrail pass. It was about choosing trains as the backbone of my movement, and letting distance, time, and transition become part of the journey.

    After walking the Camino, my relationship with movement had already changed. I no longer wanted to “arrive” abruptly. I wanted to enter places gently. Trains offered exactly that.

    A train station is not just a stop, it’s a pause between places.

    Unlike flying, where space collapses into departure gates and arrival halls, train travel stretches geography back into something human scaled. Cities don’t disappear all at once. Suburbs thin out. Factories become fields. Fields turn into forests. Sometimes forests rise into mountains.

    You don’t just arrive somewhere.
    You watch one place slowly become another.

    Watching landscapes change, instead of flying over them.

    Daytime train journeys became my favorite classroom. Sitting by the window, I learned how light changes across hours and regions, morning softness over farmland, harsh noon sun on platforms, clouds gathering near borders, rain streaking across the glass somewhere between countries.

    Weather mattered again. Temperature mattered. Time mattered.

    Inside the train, time stretches and the mind settles.

    Interrail made this rhythm possible. With one pass, I crossed borders without severing continuity. Different languages, different rail systems, but always the same ritual: finding my platform, reading the board, stepping onto the train.

    Stations became thresholds rather than stress points. Some were grand and echoing with iron and glass. Others were quiet, almost empty, with only a bench and a sign. Each one held a pause, a moment to breathe between places.

    Borders feel different when you cross them on the ground.

    On platforms and inside carriages, I encountered people I would never meet in the air. Commuters heading home. Elderly couples with grocery bags. Backpackers half asleep. Families sharing snacks. Solo travelers staring out the window, just like me.

    We didn’t always talk, but we shared time and space. Travel felt communal again.

    Travel becomes communal when you move at human speed.
    Not every train is polished, and that’s part of the story.

    Choosing trains was also a conscious environmental decision. Rail travel produces far lower carbon emissions than flying, especially within Europe. But beyond numbers, sustainability became something I could feel.

    Less rushing.
    Less disconnection.
    More presence.

    The journey itself was no longer something to endure. It became part of living.

    Choosing trains as the backbone of low-carbon travel.
    Movement without rushing.
    Travel that stays close to the land.

    What surprised me most was how trains changed my sense of arrival. By the time I stepped off, my body had already adjusted. My mind had slowed down. There was no jet lag between where I was and where I had been.

    I arrived whole.

    Traveling Europe by Interrail taught me that sustainable travel is not only about lowering emissions. It’s about aligning movement with the nervous system, with attention, with care.

    Trains didn’t just connect cities.
    They taught me how to arrive, slowly, gently, and with intention.

    This article is part of my Sustainable Travel Series, exploring how movement, culture, and low-carbon choices reshape the way we travel in Europe.

  • From Camino to Sustainable Travel 🥾

    From Camino to Sustainable Travel 🥾

    It has been almost a year since I set off from Zamora in late March and began walking the Camino de Santiago.

    Those three weeks on the Camino did not give me clear answers at the time. Instead, they planted something quietly. Over the months that followed, that seed slowly grew, reshaping how I understand travel, movement, and arrival.

    Spring on the Camino, when the river slows, my pace follows.

    In 2025 Spring, I chose to walk the Camino step by step with my own body. Later, I spent three months traveling by train and short-distance cruises within Europe, moving gradually from city to city. This rhythm made something very clear to me: when movement slows down, the body, emotions, and awareness are able to arrive together.

    I used to travel very differently. I moved frequently between continents, Europe, the United States, Asia, often within short periods of time. Those journeys were efficient and exciting, but they left me feeling fragmented. My body would already be in a new time zone, while my thoughts were still lingering on the continent I had just left.

    At dusk, the landscape changes slowly—an invitation to pause.

    The way I traveled in 2025 was not only about reducing carbon emissions. It became a shift in how I live. When I stopped rushing to cross distances and allowed myself time to truly enter a place, something inside me softened and aligned.

    On the Camino, I often walked alone. My footsteps landed on dirt paths and stone roads, passing through open fields, forests, streams, and quiet villages. The yellow arrows appeared again and again. They did not rush me or promise a destination, they simply pointed forward.

    The arrows don’t point to an ending, only to the next step.

    And yet, I was not always alone. Along the way, I met pilgrims from many different countries. Sometimes we walked together; sometimes we simply shared a short pause. Language was not always necessary. Under the same sun and with the same tired legs, understanding came easily.

    In the afternoons, we would stop at small village bars, cold, freshly poured beer, simple tapas on the table. Spanish sunlight spilled across the wood surfaces, a light breeze passed through the streets, and time felt generous. These ordinary moments became some of the clearest memories of the journey.

    Cold beer, olives, and a pause that feels exactly right.

    The train journeys and short European cruises that followed continued this same rhythm. Cities were no longer places I skipped over; they were connected, one by one. Outside the window, landscapes changed gradually, and my thoughts were given space to settle.

    This way of traveling feels gentler, to the environment, and to myself. It is not about achieving perfection or zero impact, but about making conscious choices before each movement.

    Now, I find myself drawn to this kind of travel, where movement is not only about reaching a destination, but about practicing a way of living that can be sustained over time.

    When the body, mind, and spirit arrive together, the world opens itself in quieter, kinder ways.

    This article is part of my Sustainable Travel Series, exploring how movement, culture, and low-carbon choices reshape the way we travel in Europe.

  • Warsaw, Poland 🇵🇱: Where History Meets Modern Vibrance

    Warsaw, Poland 🇵🇱: Where History Meets Modern Vibrance

    Warsaw, the capital of Poland, is a city of contrasts — a place where the scars of history meet the energy of modern development. As Poland’s largest city, Warsaw is home to over 1.8 million people and serves as the nation’s political, economic, and cultural heart. Walking through its streets, you can feel the pulse of a city constantly evolving while holding on to its deep historical roots.

    Modern Warsaw skyline — a symbol of Poland’s economic growth and innovation.

    The city’s skyline is a testament to its economic revival, with sleek skyscrapers standing side-by-side with historic landmarks. Warsaw has emerged as a hub for finance, tech startups, and creative industries, making it one of the fastest-growing capitals in Europe. Walking around, you’ll notice how seamlessly old and new blend together.

    The iconic Palace of Culture and Science, a gift from the Soviet era and a key landmark of Warsaw.

    At the heart of the city stands the Palace of Culture and Science, a striking building that symbolizes Warsaw’s complex past. Today, it houses theaters, museums, and observation decks with panoramic views of the city. From here, you can see how Warsaw has rebuilt itself from the devastation of World War II.

    A cozy evening spot where locals gather for drinks and conversations.

    Warsaw is also known for its vibrant nightlife and culinary scene. The city’s bars and cafes range from historic venues to ultra-modern spaces where locals and travelers mingle. You’ll find a unique blend of traditional Polish flavors and international influences.

    A beautiful statue surrounded by blooming roses — Warsaw’s parks are perfect for evening strolls.

    The city is dotted with parks and gardens, offering peaceful escapes from urban life. Warsaw is surprisingly green, with lush spaces like Łazienki Park, where you can see classical sculptures, fountains, and even free outdoor concerts in summer.

    The magical Old Town square at night, full of cozy cafes and historic charm.

    One of the city’s most charming areas is the Old Town, a UNESCO World Heritage site. Completely rebuilt after World War II, it’s now a lively district filled with colorful buildings, restaurants, and street performers. It’s the perfect place to enjoy a traditional Polish meal or simply people-watch.

    A tribute to Maria Skłodowska-Curie, one of Poland’s most celebrated scientists.

    Warsaw takes pride in its intellectual and cultural heritage. Exhibitions and museums celebrate figures like Marie Curie, Chopin, and other notable Poles who made their mark on the world.

    Warsaw’s modern metro system — efficient and beautifully designed.

    The city’s infrastructure is modern and efficient, making it easy to explore. The metro stations are not only practical but also works of art, with futuristic designs that reflect the city’s forward-thinking spirit.

    Sunset over the Vistula River — a perfect moment to reflect on Warsaw’s journey of resilience.

    As the sun sets, take a walk along the Vistula River. The views are breathtaking, and it’s a popular spot for locals to relax, jog, or simply enjoy nature right next to the bustling city.

    Modern food markets where global cuisines meet Polish specialties.

    Warsaw’s food markets and restaurants are full of life. Here, you can taste local specialties like Pierogi modern fusion dishes while soaking in the city’s creative energy.

    The Royal Castle glowing at night — a reminder of Warsaw’s royal past.

    End your evening by visiting the Royal Castle and surrounding squares. At night, the beautifully lit buildings create a magical atmosphere, perfect for ending your day in Warsaw.

    My Reflections 🌍

    After visiting other Polish cities in 2022, I had already fallen in love with Poland. In June 2025, I finally visited Warsaw for the first time, and it exceeded my expectations. This colorful and dynamic capital combines rich local culture, art, and history with cutting-edge technology and innovation. During my stay, I explored the city deeply with new friends I met through local meetups. Warsaw’s residents are optimistic and confident about the future, and I was truly impressed by the city’s energy and resilience. This visit left me inspired and excited to return someday.

  • Okrug Gornji, Croatia 🇭🇷: Seaside Charm on the Dalmatian Coast 🌊

    Okrug Gornji, Croatia 🇭🇷: Seaside Charm on the Dalmatian Coast 🌊

    Okrug Gornji is a beautiful coastal town on the western side of the island of Čiovo in Croatia, just across the bridge from the UNESCO World Heritage city of Trogir. With its long pebble beaches, vibrant cafés, centuries-old stone streets, and incredible sunsets, Okrug Gornji offers a perfect blend of Mediterranean relaxation and cultural discovery.

    📍 About Okrug Gornji

    The name Okrug means “circle,” describing the natural shape of the bay that embraces the town. Together with Okrug Donji, it forms the municipality of Okrug, home to around 4,000 permanent residents. In summer, the population grows dramatically as visitors from all over Europe arrive to enjoy the Adriatic sunshine.

    Its location is unbeatable: only 3 km from Trogir, 30 km from Split, and less than 10 km from Split Airport. This makes Okrug Gornji an excellent base for travelers who want to combine island life with easy access to Croatia’s mainland treasures.

    Welcome sign greeting visitors to Okrug Gornji.
    Tourist board showing local attractions and services in Okrug.

    🏖️ Beaches & Adriatic Beauty

    Okrug Gornji is most famous for Copacabana Beach, a 2-kilometer stretch of white pebbles lined with beach bars, restaurants, and water activities. Here you can rent jet skis, try parasailing, or simply enjoy a cocktail under the Mediterranean sun. Smaller bays and coves along the coastline provide peaceful spots for swimming and snorkeling in turquoise waters.

    Clear waters of the Adriatic — perfect for swimming and snorkeling.
    Golden sunsets by the Adriatic Sea, a highlight of every evening in Okrug Gornji.

    🏛️ History & Old Streets

    The island of Čiovo has been inhabited since Roman times, Trogir and Okrug Gornji still preserve much of its old-world charm. Its stone houses, arched alleys, and tiny courtyards tell stories of centuries past. Many of these homes now host restaurants, wine bars, and small shops where visitors can taste the authentic Dalmatian lifestyle.

    Arched stone passageways in the old streets.
    Cozy street cafés offering seafood, Mediterranean flavors, and homemade drinks.

    ⛪ Cultural & Religious Heritage

    Several small chapels and churches are scattered throughout Okrug Gornji. These modest yet beautiful stone churches reflect the deep spiritual traditions of Dalmatia. They are often surrounded by cemeteries, where generations of families are buried, preserving local heritage and community ties.

    Historic stone church — a quiet reminder of Okrug’s centuries-old traditions.

    🌄 Scenic Views & Nature

    From the hills above Okrug Gornji, you can admire breathtaking views of Trogir, the island landscape, and the Dinaric mountains in the background. The area is also rich in olive groves, vineyards, and Mediterranean vegetation, making it perfect for short hikes, cycling, or photography.

    Panoramic view over Okrug Gornji, with Trogir and the mountains in the distance.

    🍴 Local Food & Lifestyle

    Food in Okrug Gornji is all about freshness and simplicity. Local restaurants serve grilled fish, octopus salad, black risotto, and Dalmatian prosciutto paired with regional wines. Don’t miss homemade olive oil and traditional desserts like rožata. Evenings are best spent enjoying seafood at a family-run konoba (tavern) while the sun sets over the Adriatic.

    🌙 Day & Night Atmosphere

    During the day, Okrug is lively and full of beach activities. At night, the mood changes — the moonlight reflects on the Adriatic, cicadas sing, and the air is filled with the scent of pine trees and sea breeze. It’s a perfect place for both relaxation and romance.

    Peaceful Adriatic night under the moonlight.
    A charming alley leading down to the sea — everyday life in Okrug Gornji.

    🌞 Best Time to Visit

    The best time to visit Okrug Gornji is between May and September. July and August are the busiest months, perfect for those who love lively beaches and summer nightlife. For a quieter experience, come in May–June or September when the weather is warm, the sea is pleasant for swimming, and the crowds are fewer.

    🗓️ Suggested Itinerary

    • Day 1: Explore Okrug Gornji’s old stone streets, enjoy a seafood lunch at a konoba, and relax on Copacabana Beach. End the day with a sunset walk along the Adriatic coast.
    • Day 2: Take a boat trip from Okrug to nearby islands like Drvenik Veli or the famous Blue Lagoon. Return for a romantic dinner by the sea.
    • Day 3: Cross the bridge to Trogir for a full day exploring its UNESCO-listed old town, medieval fortresses, and vibrant markets.
    • Optional: Make a day trip to Split to see Diocletian’s Palace or head inland to explore waterfalls at Krka National Park.

    ℹ️ Practical Information

    • 🚍 Getting There: Okrug Gornji is connected to Trogir by a small bridge. Split Airport (7 km away) offers easy access by taxi, shuttle, or local bus. During summer, water taxis also connect Okrug to Trogir and Split.
    • 🏠 Accommodation: Choices range from family-run guesthouses and private apartments to small boutique hotels by the beach. Many offer sea-view balconies and direct access to the coast.
    • 💰 Prices (May 2025):
      • ☕ Coffee: €3-5
      • 🍽️ Local seafood meal: €12–25
      • 🏠 Guesthouse room per night: €40–80
      • 🏖️ Beach sunbed rental: €5–8 per day
    • 🚤 Activities: Swimming, snorkeling, jet skiing, parasailing, boat excursions, hiking, and exploring nearby towns.

    ✨ Why Visit Okrug Gornji?

    • 🏖️ Long pebble beaches and crystal-clear Adriatic waters
    • 🏛️ Historic streets and authentic Dalmatian stone houses
    • 🍷 Delicious Mediterranean food and local wines
    • 🚶 Scenic views, hiking trails, and island charm
    • ⛪ Cultural and religious heritage
    • 📍 Easy access to Trogir, Split, and nearby islands

    Okrug Gornji is more than just a seaside resort — it’s a place where history, culture, and natural beauty meet. Whether you come for the beaches, the food, or the authentic Dalmatian atmosphere, you’ll find this coastal gem a destination worth remembering.

  • Rimini, Italy 🌊🇮🇹: A Gateway to the Adriatic Coast and San Marino

    Rimini, Italy 🌊🇮🇹: A Gateway to the Adriatic Coast and San Marino

    Rimini, located in Italy’s Emilia-Romagna region, is more than just a seaside resort town. Famous for its 15 km of golden beaches, lively nightlife, and historic charm, Rimini is also the main gateway for travelers heading to the world’s oldest republic — San Marino.

    🚉 Arrival in Rimini

    Your journey begins at Rimini Railway Station. The elegant white façade with its clock tower welcomes visitors arriving by train.

    Rimini Railway Station. The historic entrance of Stazione di Rimini, with its Italian flag waving proudly.

    If you’re planning a day trip to San Marino, simply stop by a Tabaccheria ticket shop near the station.

    From there, catch the Rimini–San Marino Shuttle that departs several times daily. The stop is right outside the station.

    Shuttle Stop. The bus that connects Rimini with San Marino, waiting at its stop near the station.

    For those who like to plan ahead, the full timetable is displayed and very easy to follow.

    🎱 Retro Hostel Vibes

    In Rimini, I chose to stay at a youth hostel with quirky retro décor. The green geometric wallpaper, vintage posters, and a pool table created an atmosphere that felt straight out of a 1970s film set.

    🍷 Local Flavors

    No Italian trip is complete without indulging in local cuisine. I enjoyed fresh grilled prawns drizzled with olive oil and paired with red wine — simple, elegant, and bursting with Mediterranean flavors.

    🌅 Evening Walk by the Sea

    A short evening stroll from the city center leads you toward Rimini’s seaside promenade. Along the way, you’ll pass by the Fountain of the Four Horses, an elegant landmark surrounded by greenery.

    Nearby stands the legendary Grand Hotel Rimini, made famous by Fellini’s films. Its white façade and gardens add a touch of Belle Époque charm.

    As the sun sets, Rimini’s long beaches turn into a stage of colors. The umbrellas and sunbeds rest quietly while the sky turns shades of orange and purple.

    And when night falls, the Diamond Wheel Ferris wheel becomes the highlight of the coastline, shining in purple and pink lights.

    💡 Final Thoughts

    Rimini is a city that blends beach life, culture, and convenience. Whether you’re here for a summer escape, a cultural stroll, or as a base for exploring San Marino, Rimini offers an unforgettable mix of relaxation and adventure.